Dow's Old Tawny Porto Aged 20 Years NV / 750 ml.

This is a wonderful wood-aged, mature Port full of the classic old gold flavors and intense acidity over a dry texture that is a signature of this producer. The wine is impressive, balanced and ready to drink.

A juicy, up-front style, with hazelnut, raisin, cinnamon and dried cherry notes that are flattering through the gently sweet finish. Drink now. 4,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.

The NV 20 Year Old Tawny Port is a field blend coming in with 126 grams of residual sugar and a bar-top cork. It was bottled in 2018. Dry and stern — this is the style you’d expect from the comments in the accompanying producer note — this shows off some wood, plus very fine concentration and power for the level. This is not always an open and friendly 20, though. The 30, actually, seems far livelier and more expressive (although woodier and more mature, to be sure). This 20 is one that intends to grab your palate and not let go. Some sweetness and a touch of spice around the edges redeem it. That counters the power and woody demeanor. It drank particularly well a couple of days later. On many levels, this is impressive for its age. It works well overall in its style.

Have a cigar. It’s the right match for this very British, old-school Port. The warm, peppery alcohol seems to ask for it, while the orange zest and walnut flavors will taste refreshing aginst the tobacco smoke. This has a clarity and crispness to keep its fat texture buttoned up.

Complex aromas of toffee, roasted nuts, lead pencil, orange peel and caraway seed. Intensely flavored fruit is silky but nicely delineated; offers a fresh flavor of orange peel. Not at all thick, but brisk and vibrant. Finishes clean and long, with hints of smoked nuts and marzipan. This has far stronger material than the 10-Year-Old, which seemed clumsy and dull in comparison.