Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau”

Still tight, with the core of cherry and red currant fruit held in check by a mix of lightly firm sandalwood, spice, licorice root and warm stone flavors. Mulled fig and cocoa notes check in on the grippy finish. A rare backward style that will need some cellaring to round into form. Best from 2013 through 2020.

The Brunier brothers have turned out a very fine 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape (what they call a “vintage of freshness”). This classic effort possesses more stuffing than most of its peers. It reveals this estate’s tell-tale notes of earthy garrigue, herbs, licorice and seaweed, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, soft tannins and more depth than many 2008s. Nevertheless, it will not be a long-ager, so readers are encouraged to drink it over the next 5–7 years.