Mitolo G.A.M. Shiraz

Aged 18 months in primarily French oak, the 2004 Shiraz G.A.M. is an exceptional example of a precise yet full-flavored, concentrated Shiraz. Its gorgeous perfume of blueberries, blackberries, camphor, licorice, and pain grille is followed by an inky/blue/purple-colored wine offering superb purity, full-bodied richness, and gorgeous depth as well as texture. This fabulous effort is another example of Ben Glaetzer’s brilliant talents. It should drink well for 15 years.

Full-bodied and lush, this hedonistic Shiraz easily hides its elevated alcohol level (15%) behind layers of concentrated plummy fruit. Hints of coffee, herbs and spices impart complexity, so this isn’t a simple fruit bomb. Long and focused on the finish, with well-concealed structure that keeps the fruit from becoming jammy. Drink now–2015.

Firm, with juicy blackberry, cherry and tar flavors on a tightly wound frame, finishing with refreshing acidity. Built for the long haul. Give it time to soften. Best from 2009 through 2014.

Dark brooding ruby red, almost opaque in the glass. The texture is expansive — initially soft on the palate, the flavors keep building to a dense, full-throttle red. Chewy and bulky with black berries, mint, toasty oak and a long, satisfying finish. Solid as a tank.