Campbells Rutherglen Tokay

Bright, amber cast. Moderately full-bodied. Balanced acidity. Moderately extracted. Dates, tea, olives, caramel. Perfumed and exotically aromatic, with a rich and unctuous palate feel. Shows fine intensity and length. Powerful without being overbearing or cloyingly sweet.

Displaying a lighter amber hue than the Muscat, the non-vintage Tokay is more elegant, not as sweet (205 grams of residual sugar per liter), but unctuous, long, and fragrant, revealing hints of Chinese black tea, toffee, and marmalade. This cuvee is based on 20–25-year old soleras.

The heady, light amber-colored non-vintage Tokay (Muscadelle) is pure marmalade and molasses offered in an unctuously-textured style. Justifiably renowned for their tremendous dessert wines, Campbell’s four cuvees all performed impressively well, making one wonder if the price difference between the regular and rare offerings is really worth it. Certainly there is a bit more complexity and intensity to the Rare Tokay and Rare Muscat, which emerge from a solera system averaging 60 years of age. In any event, the tasting notes for all four wines are nearly identical to any of the great Australian fortifieds, such as Buller, Chambers Rosewood, etc.

The Non-Vintage Rutherglen Tokay is a bit less sweet but equally compelling with its thick, rich, honey, marmalade and toffee flavors.

The non-vintage Tokay (Muscadelle) reveals a lighter amber color in addition to burnt/roasted notes of camphor, scorched earth, prunes, figs, caramel, and marmalade. Its full-bodied sweetness is beautifully balanced by acidity.

The light amber-colored non-vintage Tokay (Muscadelle) easily conceals its 17.5% alcohol behind abundant quantities of Chinese Black Tea, molasses, maple syrup, and honeyed fruit. Long, complex, and extremely aromatic, it should be drunk over the next 4–5 years. This is a remarkable effort with levels of texture and richness that must be tasted to be believed.

Sweet and fragrant with rose petal and strawberry, picking up lots of almond and cashew notes as the finish persists impressively. Muscadelle. Drink now.

This is sweet and silky, with a light feel to the texture and gorgeous apricot, orange marmalade and date-nut bread flavors, lingering on the polished finish. Muscadelle. Drink now.

There is no question that this wine is a terrific buy. It is loaded with fruit, unctuous, sweet, and already complex, stunning aromatics. Moreover, it will keep for decades. This sensational offering is among the treasures of Australia.

Bright amber. Spicy orchard fruit and membrillo aromas are complemented by notes of brown butter and dried orange peel. Creamy but energetic, offering cinnamon-spiked apple and pear flavors and a gentle smokiness. Finishes with gentle lift, echoing spiciness and a clinging toffee note.

Deep amber with a bright rim. Spicy aromas of gingerbread, baked apple and toffee, plus a subtle floral quality and a touch of white pepper. Surprisingly lively for such a sweet wine, with good lift to its candied pit fruit and spicecake flavors. Clings nicely on the finish, leaving sweet toffee and date notes behind.

Possessing a pale amber color, the NV Tokay has intense grape juice and sultana aromas with supporting notes of fig paste and manuka honey. The palate is thick and sweet with enough refreshing acidity to provide lift into the long finish.

Sweet, pale and almost Sherry-like in color. Not as rich and dark as some versions, with pretty spice and light cherry flavors that sing delicately through the generous finish. Drink now.

For a fortified wine with a light amber hue, this is wonderfully fresh and citrusy, with aromas and flavors of marmalade and bergamot. Honeyed, toffee-like notes add depth, with the richness of the wine brought home by the slightly viscous finish.

Full orange color. Idiosyncratic noise shows game, maple syrup, celery and exotic herbs, plus a slight rancio character. Then fat and thick, with powerful if rather simple orange peel flavor. Supersweet to the point of cloying, with a suggestion of Pedro Ximenez sherry. Finishes very sweet and a bit warm.

Among the most traditional of Australian dessert wines is the fortified Tokay from Victoria’s Rutherglen region. The amber/chestnut color indicates the complex nature of the wine, an exotic melange of orange, apricot, and cherry flavors with walnut and spice elements suggestive of tawny port. A sweet and lingering end to an evening.