Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha

The 2009 Tres Picos is a worthy successor to the string of splendid vintages which have preceded it. Heady black cherry and blackberry aromas, Asian spices, incense, and mineral notes lead to a dense, layered, rich old-vine Garnacha that over-delivers in a big way. A tasting of every vintage of Tres Picos ever produced (back to 2001) at the Bodega in January 2011 indicates that 8–10 years of pleasurable drinking is a reasonable expectation. However, this is a wine that is ready to drink on release.

Glass-staining ruby. An explosive, flamboyantly perfumed bouquet exudes scents of blackberry, cherry cola, violet and cracked pepper, plus a hint of smokiness. Deeply pitched flavors of dark fruits and candied flowers remind me of syrah, but red fruit notes emerge with air, confirming that this is garnacha, not syrah. Intense, focused and impressively persistent on the finish, which echoes the sweet red and dark fruit notes and leaves a subtle smoky quality. This serious wine should be even better in a couple of years.